Tokyo's a book lover's dream

If life' an open book, then Tokyo is a veritable bookstore. From tiny little kiosks in train stations to mega chains in Shinjuku, Tokyo's a book lover's dream. From art books and Arabic to smuggling and science fiction, this city's bookstores have it in any language. This week John Paul Catton gives us chapter and verse on where bookworms need to go.
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By John Paul Catton 


GOOD DAY BOOKS

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The jewel in the crown of Tokyo's secondhand book world, and a must-visit for anyone looking for bargains. It has 30,000 used books and 7000 new, mostly in English. An extensive section of secondhand books on Japan includes language texts, for those who want to get started on nihongo, but don't want to pay a small fortune. For people with books they don't need, Good Day trades and offers a credit voucher good for one year. Books can be ordered; how long it takes depends on the publisher.
Bargains: Paperbacks between 400 and 700 yen. Some good quality hardbacks for 1000 yen
Most Bizarre Find: "The Prostate: A Guide for Men and the Women Who Love Them"
Where to Find it: Exit JR Ebisu station by the Beckers burger place on the side opposite the escalators. Turn right, then left down the road with Sanwa Bank on its corner. Turn right again, walk past the Subway shop, and Good Day Books is opposite the Kygnus store. Ebisu 1-11-2, 3F, Shibuya-ku. Open: 11am-8pm, Sun and holidays 11am-6pm, closed Tue. Tel: 5421-0957. Fax: 5421-0958


SHOSHINDO

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This little gem in Shibuya is for the antique hunter. It has over 2000 books in English and other European languages (a lot of German). There are scholarly reference works, very old books and very good value. There are also boxes of cheap paperbacks and stacks of what look like new hardbacks.
Bargains: A 1924 edition of Sir James Frazer's "The Golden Bough" for 2000 yen - the same price as a brand new hardback copy of "Sophie's World"
Most Bizarre Find: "50 Works of English Literature We Can Do Without," a hysterical attack on just about everyone
Where to Find it: From Shibuya east exit walk over the road and go down Miyamasu-zaka. Walk past the main Shibuya Post Office; it's on the same side, opposite Nisseki garage. 1-8-7, 1F, Shibuya-ku. Open 10am-6:30pm. Tel: 3400-6046


ARBAN

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This really is a curiosity: a store providing new and used books on just about every fetish you can think of. The War/ Military section takes up most of the shop, and ties in with the models, stamps, and coins available to collectors. The shop also stocks martial arts books (and a number of Bruce Lee fanzines) and, as the choices get progressively weirder, survivalist instruction manuals, American underground comics, and racks of mondo porno videos. Some books in French and German, and quite a few in Arabic.
Bargains: The stock is mostly in hardback, ranging from 1200 to 5000 yen for large or older editions.
Most bizarre find: "Sneak It Through: Smuggling Made Easier"
Where to find it: From Shibuya Hachiko exit, walk down Fire Dori towards Tower Records. Arban is on the same side, in the basement of the Taiseido bookstore building. 1-22-4 Jinnan, B1, Shibuya-ku. Open 10am-8pm daily. Tel: 3461-3419

JENA

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Jena is not a secondhand bookstore, but it does have one section which is set aside for paperbacks at half-price. This section is near the escalator, and opposite the bestseller display. The rest of the shop holds 50,000 new books in English and some European languages, plus a very good selection of books on films.
Bargains: Paperbacks in the sale section are 700 yen, although some large trade paperbacks were 1000 yen
Most bizarre find: "If You Think You Have Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD)"
Where to find it: Leave Ginza station by exit B3. You'll see the entrance to Jena directly across the alleyway. 5-6-1 Ginza 3F, Chuo-ku. Open 11am-8pm, Mon-Sat; 12-7pm Sun/ holidays. Tel: 3571-2908



TOWER BOOKS/ TOWER RECORDS

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Probably the best choice for new books in Tokyo, and a very impressive range of magazines. Most are in English, and though they can't order books, they do have a wildly eclectic selection.
Most Bizarre Find: Check out the street culture section for titles like "The Anarchist's Cookbook" and "The Magic Mushroom Grower's Guide."
Where to Find it: Exit Shibuya station and turn right. Cross the road and walk down Fire Dori. You can't miss it. Open 10am-10pm daily. Tel: 3496-3661


BOOK CLUB KAI

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Specializes in psychology and New Age subjects. Mostly Japanese, but one wall is devoted to English books and obscure magazines. They stock about 2000 English books and can order from the US.
Most Bizarre Find: "From Coherent Tunneling to Relaxation"
Where to Find it: From Gaienmae station walk along Aoyama Dori towards Akasaka. Walk past Doutor Coffee and turn right at the pharmacy. It's on the right side of the alleyway. 2-14-1 Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku. Tel: 3430-1926. Open 12-8pm daily. Closed New Year holidays

EXTRA, EXTRA!! Other places to read all about it... KINOKUNIYA BOOKSTORE Takashimaya Times Square Building (Annex), 6F South ExitShinjuku Tel: 5361-3301 Open 10am-8pm daily Perhaps the largest selection of books in foreign languages, they claim to stock one million, and can order more from the UK and US. The Annex is directly behind Takashimaya, a department store opposite Shinjuku station. There's also a branch in Shibuya, on the 5th floor of Tokyu Plaza, Shibuya station south exit MARUZEN2-3-10 Nihonbashi, 2/4F Chuo-ku Tel: 3272-7211 Open 10am-7pm Mon-Sat and 10am-6pm Sun/holidays Probably the second largest selection of books. French, German, Italian and Spanish available. They can order from the UK and US. Children's books on the 4th floor. Take B3 exit at Nihonbashi and you'll come up right inside the store. BIBLOS F1 Building., 5F 1-26-5 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku Tel: 3200-4531 Open 10am-9pm Mon-Sat and 10am-8pm Sun/holidays About 30,000 books, mostly in English. Large resource section for keen English teachers (yikes!). The F1 building faces the Waseda exit of Takadanobaba station. FIONA BOOKSSolofiole Jiyugaoka Building, 1F 5-4-5 Okusawa Setagaya-ku Tel: 3721-8186 Open 11am-8pm daily Claims to stock Tokyo's largest selection of children's books. Exit Jiyugaoka station by the north exit. Walk down Shirakaba shopping street, turn left and cross the railway tracks. Take the third turn on the left.

AOYAMA BOOK CENTER

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Although the main branch of this store is in Aoyama (naturally), it's not that well stocked, and anyway most gaijin are probably familiar with the one in Roppongi. They carry about 1000 English books and magazines, and are open very late. Branches in Hiroo, Jiyugaoka, Tennozu and Shinjuku.
Where to Find it: The Roppongi branch is across the street from Almond, next to the koban. The Aoyama branch is on Aoyama Dori, behind the United Nations University building. Roppongi Denki Bldg. 1F, 6-1-20 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 3479-0479. Open 10am-5:30pm Mon-Sat and 10am-10pm Sun/ holidays


KANDA/ JIMBOCHO

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Tokyo residents will soon become familiar with this name, because it's the neighborhood where the Japanese rare and antique book dealers are all clustered. The 133 bookstores are renowned for Edo period (and prohibitively expensive) publications, paintings, maps and wood block prints, but there are several places of great interest to literary-minded gaijin. If you have an afternoon free to browse (except Sundays, when most are closed), here's where to go.


KITAZAWA BOOKSTORE

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You can't fail to notice this one. Set back from the street is a massive glass granite front, with a brass-railed staircase leading up to the rare books section on the second floor. A small plaza outside holds boxes of paperbacks at bargain prices. Inside, the mahogany bookcases and marble floor foster a scholarly atmosphere, confirmed by the shop's emphasis on literature and nonfiction reference works. There's a couch for browsers on the first floor and a special reader's room on the second for those interested in the valuable first editions. They have 40,000 new books and 30,000 secondhand. They also buy books. You can order from the UK and the US; it takes about six weeks.
Bargains: Paperbacks outside for about 500 yen, new books inside for 2000 to 5000 yen. Upstairs are some bargains, such as a 1930's edition of Shelley's poetry for 1200 yen
Most Bizarre Find: "An Examination of Elizabethan Handwriting"
Where to Find it: Leave Jimbocho station and cross Hakusen Dori for five minutes; Kitazawa is on the left. 2-5 Jimbocho, Kanda, Chiyoda-ku. Open: 10am-6pm, closed Sun. Tel: 3263-0011. Fax: 3263-0015

ISSEIDO BOOKSELLERS

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Climb the marble staircase and you'll find Isseido's rare and used book section. The shop specializes in antique works on Japan and the "mysterious Orient". The selection is mostly in English, and it's not as expensive as it looks. They order books from the UK and the US, but it can take over two months.
Bargains: Carl Jung's "Man and His Symbols" and other nonfiction paperbacks for under 2000 yen
Most Bizarre Find: "Chats on the Old Tobacco Jars"
Where to Find it: Almost directly opposite Jimbocho station main exit. 1-7 Jimbocho, Kanda, Chiyoda-ku. Open: Mon-Sat 10am-6:30pm, 10:30am-6:30pm national holidays, closed Sun. Tel: 3292-0072. Fax: 3292-0076


MATSUMURA AND COMPANY

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The store inside specializes in art books, mostly in English, some very expensive. However, outside on the pavement there are bins overflowing with cheap paperbacks and recent American comics. There seems to be no order here; the best thing to do is just have a good rummage.
Bargains: Paperbacks and comics for about 500 to 1000 yen
Most Bizarre Find: The smiling faces on the cover of "The Brady Bunch Annual 1967"
Where to Find it: See Tuttle. 1-7 Jimbocho 1F, Kanda, Chiyoda-ku. Open: 10:30am-6pm, closed Sun and national holidays. Tel: 3295-5678


CHARLES E. TUTTLE AND CO

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This store is the office of the long-established publishing company, specializing in books on Japan. Although the first floor is new books, upstairs are boxes of paperbacks, mainly novels, at reduced prices. Watch out for those elbows, though; it can be a bit of a scrum.
Bargains: All paperbacks in the boxes are 700 yen
Most Bizarre Find: "The A-Z of Punk", in lurid pink fake leopard skin cover
Where to Find it: Both Tuttle and Matsumara (above) are on Yasukuni Dori, further along from Isseido, going away from Hakusen Dori. 1-11 Jimbocho, Kanda, Chiyoda-ku. Open: 10:30am-6:30pm (including national holidays), closed Sun. Tel: 3291-7071

GINKEIDO

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Pretty much the same deal as Matsumara and Co. Inside, a large number of art books and a scattering of used English nonfiction books mixed in with the Japanese. Outside, shelves and bookcases of secondhand hardbacks at reasonable prices. They order books, but only from the US, and it can take a long time.
Bargains: "The SF Encyclopedia" and other hefty volumes for 1000 yen
Most Bizarre Find: "Michael Jackson's Guide to Beer"
Where to Find it: Past Tuttle, Yasukuni Dori bends to the right. Cross over Ochanomizu Dori intersection and keep going straight. Ginkeido is on the right. 3-1 Ogawamachi, Kanda, Chiyoda-ku. Open: 10:30am-7pm, closed Sun. Tel: 3291-5081. Fax: 3291-4155